Superstars in the Textile Industry - Silk (below)

Xiaobian gave you the history of silk development and production process for you in the Silk Week of your science last week. Today, Xiaobian can present you with wonderful appreciation of the most beautiful silk types and its value. visual feast.

Silk is a symbol of ancient Chinese culture and has made indelible contributions to the promotion of the development of human civilization in the world. Chinese silk is famous for its excellent quality, beautiful colors and rich cultural connotations. Thousands of years ago, silk was introduced to Europe along the ancient Silk Road. Not only was it a piece of gorgeous costumes and accessories, but it was also an ancient and splendid civilization in the East. Since then, silk has almost become Communicators and Symbols of Eastern Civilization.

First of all, we talk about the four famous silk embroidery and the appreciation of the three famous brands.

Four famous embroidery

Suzhou embroidery is a general term for embroidery products in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province.

The birthplace of Suzhou embroidery is in the area of ​​Wuxian, Suzhou. It borders on Taihu Lake and has a mild climate. It is rich in silk and local women are known for their traditional practice of embroidering. The superior geography environment, beautiful and rich brocade, has created favorable conditions for the development of Suzhou embroidery. In the long-term historical development process, Suzhou embroidery has formed a local style with beautiful designs, harmonious colors, bright lines, lively acupuncture, and elaborate embroidery, and is known as the " Pearl of the Orient . "


Qiang Embroidery , also known as Sichuan Embroidery , is a general term for Sichuan embroidery products centered on Chengdu. The history of Qianxiu is very long. According to records in the “ Huayang Guozhi ” of Chang’an in the Jin Dynasty, the embroidery in Suizhong was well-known at that time.

Qiang embroidery uses soft satin and color silk as the main raw materials, and has a wide range of acupuncture methods. It has given full play to the specialty of hand embroidery and has formed a strong local style. The subject of embroidery is mostly flowers, birds, beasts, landscapes, insect fish, and characters. In addition to the pure embroidery screen, there are quilt covers, pillowcases, clothes, shoes, cushions, tablecloths, scarves, handkerchiefs, and painting screens. Both huge screens and small pockets are exquisite works of art that are both ornamental and practical.


Xiangxiu, the general name of embroidery products centered on Changsha, Hunan Province.

Xiang embroidery won the best prize and the first prize respectively at the Turin Exposition in Italy and the Panamanian Exposition in 1912 and 1933. It was hailed as a super embroidery by foreign countries. Xiang embroidery is characterized by the use of velvet thread (non-tanned wool) embroidery, in fact, is to deal with the velvet in solution to prevent fuzzing, which is called “ embroidery ” in the area . Xiangxiu also uses traditional Chinese painting as its theme, vivid and vivid in style, and bold in style. It once had the reputation of “ embroidered peanuts, embroidered birds that can listen to sounds, embroidered tigers can run, and embroidered people can express themselves ” . The color matching features of Xiangxiu humanity paintings are dominated by dark gray and black and white, and plain and elegant ink paintings. Xiangxiu daily necessities are colorful and the decoration of pattern ornaments is strong.



Yue embroidery is a general term for the art of embroidery in Guangdong, including Guangzhou as the center of "wide embroidered" and Chaozhou as the representative of "embroidery" two schools. According to legend, it was originally found in ethnic minorities, and it shares a source with the brocade produced by the Li nationality. Most of the former embroiderers were men in Guangzhou and Chaozhou and were rarely seen in the world.



The Guangdong embroidery began in the Tang Dynasty and formed characteristics in the late Ming and Middle Ages. It was famous in the Qing Dynasty for export from Guangzhou Port. Its superb artistry, strong decorative composition, rich colors, bright, smooth and bright embroidered velvet, arts and crafts clear, Velvet free and easy. The Tang Dynasty Su Shi's essay "Duyang Miscellaneous" describes the exquisite craftsmanship of Guangxiu : " Yongzheng first year Nanhai Gonche Umeimei Niang, 14 years old, is extremely clever, able to embroider "The Chinese Sutra "Seven volumes, the size of the word, no more than miliary points and clearly defined, fine as unscathed, its title chapters and sentences, no will. More good for flying fairy, covered with a silk hook into three strands, dyed into five colors ..."

The three major names

Yunjin is a kind of jacquard silk woven handicrafts produced in Nanjing. With exquisite materials, exquisite weaving, exquisite designs, and colorful brocade patterns, the great achievements of the ancient silk weaving craftsmanship have also brought together valuable experience of various other silk weaving techniques. , reached the peak state of silk weaving process. The main feature of Yunjin is flower blossom. From different angles of view, the colors of flowers on embroidery are different. [27]

The history of Yunjin can be traced back to the Song dynasty. It was named after the Ming and Qing Dynasties because of its splendid color and splendid cloud. It was popular in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Yunjin was a royal tribute to the royal family during the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. The last milestone in the history of ancient brocade craft, it is one of the most precious historical and cultural heritage of the Chinese nation and the world. In 2006 , Yunjin was included in the list of China's first non-material cultural heritage sites. In September 2009 , it was successfully selected as the “List of Representatives of Human Intangible Cultural Heritage”. Inheritance Unit is Nanjing Yunjin Institute

Yujin originally referred to Caijing produced in Sichuan, and later became the general name for the brocade produced in various places.

Jinjin is an important part of traditional Chinese dyeing and weaving process. It is mostly made of dyed ripe silk yarn, and it is made of warp threads, color strips or color strips, and weaves with a combination of geometric patterns and patterns. The brilliance of the brocade pattern is very extensive and rich, such as myths and legends, historical stories, Zhanxiang inscriptions, landscape characters, flowers, birds and animals.

There is a long history of Jinjin , and Chengdu’s “ Jin Guancheng ” was named after the Qin and Han Dynasties. The Jin and Qin Dynasties to the Sui and Tang Dynasties were almost all Jin Jin. It is one of the main trading products of the Silk Road, and it is also the predecessor of Kyoto Nishijin, a traditional Japanese national treasure . In 2006 , Suijin weaving techniques were approved by the State Council to be included in the first batch of state-level intangible cultural heritage. The unit of inheritance is Chengdu Jinjin Textile and Embroidery Museum .

Song Jin is one of the traditional silk fabrics in China. It probably originated in the late Song Dynasty and was mainly produced in Suzhou . In the pattern organization, precise and meticulous, firm texture; in the pattern, the symmetry of rigorous and changeable, rich and smooth and vivid; in the use of color, Yan but not fire, complex but not chaotic, full of lingering charm; In the production process, the main features are the simultaneous display of warps and wefts. Song Jin's practicality is very strong, its texture is soft and strong, exquisite designs, wear resistance and can be washed repeatedly, the application of a very wide range.




Song Jin was developed on the basis of the Tang Dynasty Brocade. The products were divided into Dajin, Xiaojin and ribbons. Dajin is also called "ancient Kam". In 2006, Song Jin was included in the first national intangible cultural heritage list. The inheritance unit is the Suzhou Silk Museum . Modern Song Jin is mainly produced in Hangzhou, Huzhou, Suzhou and other places. The modern production of Song Jin is also known as "imitation Song Jin," and the main varieties are Dajin, Boxjin and Xiaojin.

The following small series speaks about the value of silk:


China is the hometown of silk. Silk is one of the most important features of Chinese civilization. It has a great deal of connection with China’s etiquette system, culture and art, customs, folklore, and science and technology. The emperors used silk to show their authority, and the officials used silk to mark their ranks. The literati wrote down the poems that lamented the silk. The artist splashed ink on the silk made pipa; the people offered sacrifices to the silkworm gods and pray for high yields of silk, and the imperial court The decree of ordering the sericultural mulberry trees was issued, and the performance of local officials was evaluated. Two of the four inventions have a direct relationship with silk. The original meaning of "paper" is the accumulation of velvet filaments in the process of making silk. The invention of printing was directly related to the letterpress printing technique on silk. The printed silk fabric unearthed from the Mawangdui Han tomb had a large area of ​​colorful overprints, which was nearly 1,000 years earlier than the official Tang Dynasty engravings. Therefore, it can be said that the embossed printing on silk is the originator of the engraved printing of future generations. In addition, the development of the Maritime Silk Road has also directly promoted the practice and improvement of the compass.

Silk is not only a simple and expensive raw material for clothing, but also plays an important currency function for a long time in history. For China, "silk" is not just a commodity but the currency itself. It can be used not only to pay for the death of a pawn, but also to pay for the purchase of commodities such as horses. China uses silk to buy livestock products from grassland tribes, while grasslanders sell these silks westward along the Silk Road. It is in this process that silk has achieved a transition from currency to commodity. It also explains that at the eastern end of the Silk Road, Romans and Byzantine gold coins can often be found. The reason why Chinese copper coins are rarely found in the West is because silk It is the currency of the Silk Road itself.
1. Promote the development of the textile industry
The local silk culture reacts to the local textile industry, and it has carried out a series of innovations and reforms on the basis of the original, thereby increasing labor productivity, creating new fabric types, and further enriching the silk culture.
The first contribution of Chinese silk to the world lies in the fact that China's silk technology has spread along with the spread of silk. China's silk technology first spread to the Central Asian region. There is a story in the book “The Western Regions of the Tang Dynasty” about the story of the silk-transfer princess who introduced the silkworm species to the country of Satan. The spread of silkworm eggs from Central Asia to Europe took place during the reign of Justinian. A Persian monk brought silkworm eggs from his silk cane to Rome. The Chinese sericulture silk technique was thus spread to Europe.
In addition to sericulture technology, silk and silk jacquard technology has also had a major impact on Western textile technology. In his "History of Science and Technology in China," Needham listed China's scientific and technological achievements that have contributed to the world beginning with 26 English letters, including: F - Jacquard machines and horizontal loom; G - Reeling machines, spinning Silk machine and rewinding machine. Due to the absorption of these technologies, Europe has greatly improved its own textile technology, resulting in many mechanical innovations. It is also on this basis that the textile industry revolution in modern Europe will likely rise. The principle of silk jacquard, that is, the process of storing the information through the combination of the heddle and the tread bar, or the method of compiling the information and transforming it into a jacquard program, contains profound mathematical ideas. After it was introduced to Europe, it not only had a great impact on the development of European silk weaving technology, but also had a great impact on the development of modern telegraphic communication technology and even computer principles.
The influence of foreign silk culture on the development and innovation of the local textile industry is even greater. After China's silk entered European countries, monarchs of various countries have established and developed their own silk weaving industry. In this process, the spread of silk culture is not a simple copy, but it is constantly perfected and continuously full. For example, the workers in Western Europe's spinning silk weavers blended their rich imagination and sense of color into the creativity of the ancestors of the Chinese nation, making textile technology increasingly sophisticated and scientific, and becoming the precursor of modern industry. It is because of this highly creative combination that it has greatly enriched and promoted the development of textile technology. After the formation of foreign silk culture, it was fed back to China and played an important role in promoting the development and progress of China's textile industry. In particular, modern textile and textile technology has had a tremendous impact on the development of China's textile industry.
2. Promote the development of Chinese language and literature
Silk culture plays a significant role in the creation and development of Chinese characters, and it is reflected in the production and application of Chinese characters in kanji, silkworm silkworms, silkworms, and a large number of "纟" characters and related Chinese characters. In Shuo Wen Jie Zi, 9353 words were included in the Shuwen, including 248 words, which accounted for about 3% of the total number of suona. There are also a large number of words related to these words in Chinese, such as: silkworm, mulberry, mulberry, silkworm, silk, spinning, silk road, painting, jade, money and so on. Most of these words have a close relationship with the production of the silk industry.
In addition, there are many idioms and allusions related to the silk culture, such as self-tethering, tips, clothing nights, homecoming and so on. In addition, a large number of literary works also express feelings or reflect social reality by depicting sericulture and silk, such as Li Bai's "Moving on Sang" and Du Fu's "White Silk".
3, to promote the derivative of folk culture
The folk culture of silk culture is rich in color. The worship of silkworms by the Chinese people has a history of thousands of years. The myths and legends about silkworm gods have been endless for thousands of years. There are numerous silkworm gods, and there are no more than 10 kinds of silkworm gods. Many songs, idioms, and dialects about silk culture are the activation of history. They have a rich folk color. Many old customs, social customs, and life etiquette and customs are related to silk culture.
4, promote the development of arts and crafts
Silk culture goes deep into all aspects of cultural life, has a great influence on people's aesthetic interests, and then affects other arts, and even promotes the emergence of some new art categories. The style of the silk patterns of the Pre-Qin period was simple, generous, and varied. These patterns interacted with the same patterns of pottery, metalware, lacquerware, etc., and were compatible with the level of weaving technology at that time. Dong Zhou's painted lacquerware can see rich inter-colors and complex colors, echoing the silk color characteristics of the time. The origin of "Twelve Chapters" has a close connection with silk hand-painting and embroidery. "Twelve Chapters" later evolved into special patterns on the emperors' robes and became an important part of ancient costume culture.
The invention of Chinese calligraphy and painting rice paper has a direct relationship with the ancient silk “缣帛” and “绢布.” In fact, the invention of paper was still influenced by silk. The original idea of ​​paper was the accumulation of silk in the rinsing process. A thin layer, called paper. Inspired by this, people use paper instead of silk to make paper, which has become a major invention in China. Another major invention of printing is also originated in the silk industry. According to the research, the relief printing of Chinese ancient silk is the predecessor of engraving printing. In the traditional printing process, many parts directly come from the printing technology. The invention of paper and printing greatly promoted the development of multi-arts such as calligraphy and painting.
5. Promote the integration and exchange of world culture
As one of the great inventions of ancient China, silk has contributed much to world civilization through the ancient Silk Road. At the same time, foreign culture has also entered China through the Silk Road, making local culture more colorful. Japan has repeatedly accepted Chinese immigrants to enter their own lives or send envoys to China to learn silk technology. Chinese immigrants, a large number of Japanese students and scholars from Japan and Japan joined the mission and played an important role in Japan’s political, economic, and cultural reforms and development. Especially during the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the Sui and Tang dynasties had a strong impact on Japanese society and culture. In Japan, an unprecedented "Imitating Tang Culture" has been formed and it has continued for more than 200 years. After returning to Japan as a reward for Japanese culture, people’s spiritual horizons were broadened, and many cultures became the subject of poetry and poetry. Some silks were prayed for by exotic gods or legends as patterns, which were absorbed by Chinese craftsmen and enriched the Chinese people. Cultural tastes. In addition, silk is also used as a "peace emissary" of various countries and has played a key role in the diplomacy of various countries. Each country uses silk trade or mutual-gifting silk as its breakthrough point to strengthen ties between countries, maintain peaceful and stable international relations, and provide favorable conditions and environment for the advancement and development of world civilization.

Xiao Bian said that so much is undoubtedly a unique feeling for silk. This old and beautiful thing needs our respect and inheritance.


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