Between Japan's southern Kagoshima Amami Island white sand beach and lush forests, produced a unique Japanese handmade high-end fabrics: Oshima. Oshima ç´¬ is a silk cocoon that has long been considered one of the most advanced kimono fabrics. However, due to the continuous decline in the demand for kimono in Japan in recent years, the output of Oshima has also been declining. At present, the Japanese government is working with manufacturers, fashion brands to ensure that this unique fabric left in the world. The production of Oshima is about 1300 years old, but recent tools revealed that it may be traced back to earlier. Oshima ç´¬ many factors in the production process led to the uniqueness of this fabric, in general, the fabric of the production process is divided into about 30 separate parts, the main process, including the process, the wheel plum, mud, And hand-woven. Oshima ç´¬ raw materials for the white silk. This white thread was originally produced on the island, but most are imported from Brazil. In order to make a solid black thread, first soak it in the rust-colored dye solution mixed with the rhizomes of tannin and wheelmeal (hard texture, also known as iron tree in Japan) for the first time color. The next step is mud dyeing, skilled craftsmen no matter spring, summer, fall and winter, uninterrupted silk soaked in mud water rub. The Amami Oshima soil, rich in iron, produces a natural chemical reaction with the plant dyes on the filaments, changing the color of the thread to dark chestnut brown. After five muds, the thread turns black. But to this day, chemical dyes are unable to show this special black color of natural ingredients: pure and warm, soft and shiny. Katsuya Taira, a craftsman who has made Oshima in more than 30 years, said he spent about four hours a day bending over in the mud to dye the silk thread, during which time he dyed the 125-mile-long thread A roll of cloth requires more than 1250 miles of thread. "Every fortnight, we change the place to wash the water, because after a period of time, the iron in the land will be depleted.This is a physical work, but as long as I still have strength, I want to continue to do so." "If solid black silk dyed solid is an intensive work, then here is the most striking part of the entire production process. In order to make the typical Oshima ç´¬ geometric patterns and patterns, part of the thread will be woven with the cotton thread before it is dyed. After dyeing the cotton will be removed, we can show stripes effect. These designs will eventually appear in the form of paintings on the island of Oshima. These wires spread over the grid with different color points to form an image. The original process was done by hand and is currently the only computerized part of the production process. The grid is used to determine where the thread is to be inserted into the thread, even when it is black. These parts are still white. After removing a specific portion of the cotton thread at the same time, the tradesman will use a knife-like tongue depressor to weave threads of other colors. The more colors the pattern, the more the number of cotton threads. This process is the most important part of the whole complex production - we can not weave a fabric as long as we make a mistake. The entire dyeing process of silk is about 6 to 10 months. After the dyeing is completed, the yarn is placed on the hand loom to start weaving. This is the first step in making the pattern appear, but as the thread stretches over the loom and the patterns are no longer uniform, the weaver must constantly readjust the thread to match every point on the grid pattern. Each weaver can weave 12 inches of fabric a day, and weaving a 40-foot cloth takes two months. Katsura Taira said: "The most unique aspect of Oshima is that it is not the last time it is completed and nobody knows whether every step of the entire production process has been successfully completed. This is where this job attracts me." Island ç´¬ beautiful place can not be fully realized through the picture. Tokuharu Koshima, president of Oshima Tsumugi Mura, said: "(Oshima ç´¬) will not be soft, it will not be hard, it will not be too thick nor too thin, because the dense Weaving, even if it is light or warm, it is not easy to wrinkle. "Oshima Tsumago is a production plant run by Teraidese father, and currently offers sightseeing travel services. Like many Japanese traditional arts and crafts, Oshima is also produced in only one place, and production has been declining in recent years. According to the Oshima Textile Association data, Oshima arrived in production peak in 1976 with an annual output of 11.64 million meters, but today the output is only 360,000 meters. Therefore, the Japanese government is constantly exploring the use of this fabric in addition to other uses. Kubota Orimono, a Kashgar-based company that produces and sells Oshima in Kagoshima, collaborated with apparel makers in Tokyo in 2015 to create a new brand, tatsugo, that sells ties and bags made by Oshima on the Internet Other accessories. Recently, Isetan Department Store in Shinjuku, Tokyo hosted an exhibition featuring single items from Oshima that were designed by some well-known Japanese fashion brands. Including Yohji Yamamoto skirts (below), Needles' jacket, Sasquatchfabrix shirts and tops, and more. Daisuke Yokohama of Sasquatchfabrix said: "Because this was my first time using Oshima, I decided to go to the factory for production. Weft and weft yarns were woven together to create patterns. Each silk thread was designed separately and muddied to a specific pattern Dyed, and then hand-knit. "There have been some brands in this event have used the Oshima ç´¬. Needles' Keizo Shimizu said he had created a limited edition flip flops in the spring and autumn 2016 collections using a muddy black and purple-violet fabric combined with sweet potato-patterned fabrics, but this event is the first to bring the Big Islandç´¬ for clothing. "In order to demonstrate the advantages of this fabric, we have made two outerwear this time and I believe I can show the magnificence of the fabrics, but the design is limited due to the lack of cloth." The narrower fabric is a typical feature of kimono fabrics. Yokoyama Daisuke also said that this will limit Oshima ç´¬ in the use of modern fashion design. Another factor is the high price caused by its labor costs and long production time. However, Teraujo, who studied design in Paris, said he will not allow Oshima to become history. "The key is to keep thinking about the new idea, I want to use the island in a new way, new things."
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